Warning: Serious Pork Post Ahead
I’m starting a new series here on the blog, because I do love me a good meal. It’s called Great Feasts. Join me as I chronicle the top meals I’ve had, either together with the DH or with friends, across the globe. From pork in Spain to seafood in Asia, I’m hungry!
First up is a surprising meal in the Spanish city of Mérida. Alas, there is no photographic evidence of this feast, perhaps that is why it is still a secret:
There was nothing inspiring about the Hotel Zeus in Mérida, Spain, at least not at first glance. The parking lot was a nightmare – the spaces had all been painted just a few inches too small, and every car had been forced to take up two. The reception was so over the top and cheesy in its “Greek” decor that even Zeus was embarrassed. The staff were not friendly at all. In fact, they took great offense at our suggestion that the parking lot was illogically designed. In exchange for a ridiculous amount of money, they gave us a tiny room with an even more illogical design. Mérida was in fiestas, however, and it was this or the back seat of the Renault. The hotel was a 15 minute walk from the city center and after a long day traipsing around the Roman ruins, we hesitated at the thought of walking all the way back for dinner. The reception desk staff recommended the hotel’s terrace restaurant. “Sure,” we thought, “we really want to eat in this two-bit joint.” Skeptical, we wandered over to the “terrace” to drink a beer.
The terrace turned out to be a large garden area to the side of the hotel with a swimming pool at one end and a bar/grill at the other. Entirely open air, the restaurant/cafe was filled with both tourists and locals from the nearby residential area having drinks and appetizers. (It was not quite yet the dinner hour.) Children played while the adults chatted. Everyone seemed happy. The air was slightly cool, which was a relief from the high Summer temperatures. The atmosphere was relaxed and friendly and the few food dishes out on the tables looked tasty.
We had a beer and looked at the menu. And we stayed. And that has to be one of the most fortuitous decisions of our lives. Because what we ordered was insanely divine. Now I am not saying that the Terrace Restaurant at the Hotel Zeus serves the best grilled meat in all of Mérida, for all I know every grill restaurant in Mérida churns out awesome meat. All I can say is on that particular night in August, in that particular corner of Mérida, on that particular plate, it was magic.
The “magic” is called Secreto Ibérico, (Iberian Secret), and I am licking my fingers at the memory alone. Everyone knows that the Spanish love their pork. They have awesome pork products. I pity the pork abstainers on holiday in Spain. Of all the Spanish, the Extremeños know pork the best. The Secreto Ibérico is a cut of pork that I believe could only come from the famed Spanish pigs raised in the wooded hills of Extremadura. Up in northern Spain, where the DH comes from, there is no Secreto Ibérico. It’s such a secret no one’s ever heard of it. What is it? It is a highly-marbled cut from behind the shoulder blade. Highly-marbled, so all you anti-fattists out there can stop reading. Herein lies the glory. Seared pork fat. Secreto Ibérico is cooked over a hot flame and through the power of science, the outer surface turns crispy while the inside stays moist and flavorful. Cut up and consumed with mass quantities of french fries cooked in olive oil, it is heaven. Or a heart attack, depending on your genetic makeup. Cost? No idea! It was worth whatever we paid!
**Number one on our list of Global Gal and the DH’s greatest feasts is Secreto Ibérico in Mérida, Spain.**
Terraza del Hotel Zeus
Avenida Reina Sofia, 8
Mérida, Extremadura, Spain
I love that on this hotel booking site, it states that “free parking is possible.”
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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
Thank you SO MUCH for this post. My wife and I are vacationing in Madrid, saw “Secreto Ibérico” on a couple of menus. When I googled it, I found this page, and resolved to order some at the next opportunity. Which was tonight. It was amazing! Between this cut and prosciutto di Parma, I think American factory pork is dead to me.
I am so happy to hear that my post helped you out! After I wrote this review, I was a little worried that I had sung its praises too loudly. I later asked a friend with a restaurant about this cut of meat, and his eyes glazed over, so I guess we are not the only ones who appreciate it! Enjoy your stay in Spain!
I had a very different experience of this dish. While in Casabermeja, southern Spain, I ordered it knowing full well that I had not a clue what I was ordering. It was very much under cooked, took the full force of a steak-knife to cut it, never mind chew it. I had to cut into small pieces and swallow them whole in order to consume. A very unpleasant experience. I suspect that it was down to the cook though, as it was nothing like described above, and certainly no crispy surface, it was rather similar to the inner tube of a car tire.
Rgds,
Dave.
Oh no! That is horrible! To tell you the truth, I’m almost afraid to order the Secret again. It was so good the next round is sure to disappoint. I’m sorry your experience was not good. There’s nothing worse than chewy inner tube meat. Ugh!
Hi everyone, just came across this topic trying to find out exactly what it is, I live in Caceres, Extremadura but im English, i absolutely love this cut of meat and was searching for what exact cut it was because ive never heard of it before i moved, just finished eating some now and thought id look it up….
It basically shouldn´t be a thick cut a normal steak thickness or a little less well barbecued and crispy on the outside a succulent inside finished with a sprinkle of sea salt, its amazing, you cant go wrong with it along side a crusty roll.
Like everything a bad cook = bad food but it really is not hard to cook
p.s score the meat before cooking to release most of the fat and cook through better as it doesnt require long cooking time.
Just had this at Carelia in downtown Helsinki. The owner couldn’t explain what it was so I found your site. It truly was Magic!